Into Jerusalem

There are certain sites on this planet that, no matter how urbane a man considers himself to be, simply take one's breath away. Standing at the base of the Sphinx, and staring in awe at the Pyramids of Giza, is one. Climbing around the ruins of the massive Angkor Wat complex in Cambodia is another. But the hands down winner in goosebump provocation is a first view of the Temple Mount from the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem.






We arrived at that location late in the afternoon as the sun, dipping behind us, bathed the Old City in a golden glow that seemed to radiate back from the Moslem Dome of the Rock. Sweeping beneath us and up towards the eastern wall were the white limestone graves of thousands of Jews, whose great hope is to be among the first to enjoy rebirth when the Messiah descends from the sealed Golden Gate. Our guide poured cups of Israeli wine as we shared a blessing over our first gaze at Jerusalem. In the distance were the steps climbed by Jesus as he entered the City to approach the Second Temple; to our right, the Garden of Gethsemane, farther in the distance, the church that traditionally marks the crucifixion and resurrection. Out of our sight, but operating 24/7, the Western Wall, the most venerated religious location in Judaism.

Here we are at the junction of three major religions, whose holiest sites reside side by side, and sometimes one on top of another. It's also a city of fierce antagonisms between Jews and Moslems, and among the many Christian sects who battle for primacy over their most important traditional locations.

We began the next day by entering the Armenian Quarter of Jerusalem. Almost immediately, our group was bisected by a parade of very young yeshiva boys (barely a pais in sight), their parents and rabbis carrying boxes of books. These were the students' first "chumash," or prayerbooks, each wrapped in a velvet book covering and embroidered with the name of each first grader. I expect they were all heading to a ritualistic location to mark this inauguration of a lifetime of religious study.






We soon wound our way through the Jewish Quarter to our first sighting of the Western Wall. More goosebumps as we descended into the plaza, and made our way to the Wall. This is one of the original sections of the retaining wall of the Temple Mount built by Herod the Great. Above the Wall is Mount Moriah, now covered by the Dome of the Rock mosque. The holiest of all sites for Jews, it is traditionally where Abraham brought Isaac to be sacrificed, was the site of both the First and Second Temples and is considered the center of the earth, where God created Adam. It is also worshipped by followers of Islam as the site from which Mohammed ascended to heaven. The last time I was in Jerusalem, some 35 years ago, I was able to enter the Dome of the Rock and examine the top of Mount Moriah. Regrettably, that is no longer possible.

After a few minutes of prayer and reflection at the Wall, including the placement of personal notes within cracks in the Wall, we entered the area beneath an arch just next to the structure, where a synagogue has been created for private prayer and study. The whole experience was more moving than I can describe. We left the Western Wall plaza with reluctance. I expect to return during my extended stay here.

The other memorable address in the Jewish Quarter is the tomb of King David. A black marble sarcophagus exists under a velvet covering, which the Crusaders declared was the traditional burial location, and the structure itself can be examined and used as a site for prayer.






Directly above this tomb is a moderately sized hall that was identified as the site of the Last Supper. No coincidence, as Jesus was a descendent of David. It just reinforced the religious redundancy that keeps recurring here in moving and mysterious ways.

Next we curved our way within the Moslem and Christian Quarters along the Via Delorosa, the path of Jesus from trial to resurrection. At each of the 14 Stations of the Cross, a church or monument marks significant events. No matter to which of the many available religions you may subscribe, this is a moving experience. Over two millennia, countless millions of pilgrims have trod this path, reinvigoring their faith.

Politically, things are tense in the City, as some Moslem merchants have shut down their stores in protest to recent Israeli commando activity in Gaza. We'll be attentive to how far the protests escalate or if these events impact our itinerary, particularly next week in the West Bank.

Next time: More From Jerusalem and Galilee Highlights